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SRP Rebate Program Update

11/8/2018

7 Comments

 
With APS lowering their rebate amounts, it’s not all bad news.  SRP customers were delighted to hear their SRP rates were lowered this past summer and now the SRP rebate program has increased. Even if you have had an SRP energy audit in the past but have not done any upgrades, your home would qualify for these new rebate amounts.  Homes must have an energy audit performed by a company like Green ID to qualify.
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Beginning November 1, 2018 SRP homes having duct sealing or insulation upgrades performed can enjoy increased rebates!  See the table below for SRP new rebate changes.


SRP Rebate Program Changes

Upgrade
Old Rebate Amount
New Rebate Amount
Insulation
$400
$600
Duct sealing (single family home)
$250
$400
Duct sealing (condo or townhome)
$200
$300
The SRP shade screen rebate will remain the same at $0.80 sq ft, as will the energy efficient air conditioner rebates from $400-$800 and Nest thermostat rebates of $75.  

Can I Submit My Own SRP Insulation Rebates?

The SRP Home Performance With Energy Star program provides rebate incentives for homeowners who have a certified energy audit performed on their home for only $99.  Once the energy audit is complete, the contractor will provide recommendations to improve the comfort, air quality and energy efficiency of the home and facilitate SRP rebates on the homeowner’s behalf.  Homeowners are not able to apply for the insulation or duct sealing rebates themselves under the program.  The energy auditing contractor must create a HPXML file to submit to SRP with the house specifications in order to qualify for the rebates and the rebates can either come off the top of the cost or be assigned to the homeowner.  SRP typically takes 2-6 weeks to process the rebate checks.  Homeowners that choose to do the insulation themselves will not qualify for the insulation rebate as contractors are trained to meet Energy Star’s strict installation requirements.


There are several critical items that must be done for every insulation job to make sure the insulation is not compromised because when it comes to blowing insulation, the preparation is almost as important as the depth.
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  • Air seal the attic. Air sealing is separating the attic from the conditioned house and you would think that the framers, drywallers and A/C contractors would know this when they build the house but surprisingly in most homes we find a lack of boundary between the attic and home.​
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  • Kneewalls are neglected. A kneewall is a vertical wall in your home that has a back side in the attic.  Kneewalls are also in the attic and just like the drywall ceiling, they need to be properly insulated. 
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  • Taking care of the attic hatch.  I love when insulation contractors throw a fiberglass batt across the attic hatch and call it good.  It’s like telling your kids to clean their room and you come back to see a half-ass job and them preoccupied with whatever they were doing before. Nice try, but that’s a fail.  
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By doing these upgrades before you insulate your home, you’ll be sure to have a properly sealed and insulated home.

Will My Home Qualify For An Energy Audit?

Not every home needs an energy audit however most homeowners are misled into thinking they need to replace all their windows or go solar to reduce their energy bills.  By having an energy audit done on your home, you are getting a comprehensive test of the house to find the true problems.  We don’t send a commissioned sales person to do a “free inspection” and then turn around and use the same recommendations on every home.  Our auditors actually spend 2-4 hours in a home, just performing our tests that measure airflow, room pressures, HVAC efficiency, duct leakage, air leakage and so much more.  Only then, based on our numbers will we recommend solutions for your home.  I tell homeowners all the time, if we find that your home is in good shape, our auditors will let you know that.  There’s no games with our energy audits and that fact that most of our energy auditors have been with Green ID for 6+ years is a testament to their expertise.  We also complete and apply for all the rebate paperwork on your behalf and even take the cost of the rebate out from the start.  To find out if your home is a good fit for an energy audit, complete SRP Home Analyzer form and see where your home stands.

Be sure to take advantage of SRP rebate increase while it lasts because in recent years, SRP rebate amounts have varied and decreased much more than increased.
7 Comments
Elaine Joyal link
12/28/2018 11:09:12 am

Our house had an energy audit and was mostly weatherized in 2010. There are two places that are uninsulated or under-insulated.

First, is block wall in our enclosed sunroom. We added insulation to the ceiling & replaced the single-pane glass with dual pane glass. What remains is to insulated the block. We either waste a lot of energy if we keep the room open in the winter and summer or it's otherwise too cold or too hot.

Second, in our development the houses have insulated block construction front and back but under-insulated siding on the side walls. I don't know how to add insulation to them.

Thanks.

Reply
David
12/28/2018 02:01:26 pm

Hi Elaine,
Did your home have a swamp cooler? If the block walls are insulated already, you do not need to inject closed cell spray foam.

Reply
Elaine Joyal
2/5/2019 12:25:22 pm

David, Thanks for your reply. Two parts:

1, House had evaporative cooler from 1993 to 2010. No longer.

2, If you reread my post, I gave you most of the information that you're asking for.

- "Lanai room" is uninsulated block. It was an addition done in 1969. The house had a 10' x 20' porch with a roof when it was built in 1965. The original owners had a concrete floor poured, slump block added to waist height, and windows installed.

- The main house is insulated block on the front (north-facing) and back (south-facing). The sides of the house, however, are a composite that was popular here in the 1960s (I don't recall what it's called, started with a "P" followed by a number). These two sides are insulated but not as well as the block walls, both against heat & cold, and also sound. Moreover, along the base on the west side and also on south & east side of utility room, it's been deteriorating. My question(s) is:
Should I cover it with another siding? or What should I remove it and replace it with some other siding? and What would add insulation value while also protecting the exterior?

Thanks.

David Margaret lightfoot
1/25/2019 08:15:58 am

We can barely afford the bills for electric we can’t afford to pay for it

Reply
David
2/4/2019 08:45:23 pm

What city do you live in? Some have housing assistance programs that make energy efficiency improvements for little to no cost for you. If your energy bills are really high, this work can save you hundreds each year.

Reply
Sue Lovelace
5/15/2019 07:26:43 am

What about a rebate for new windows & patio doors?

Reply
Steven Pullman link
9/4/2019 05:23:20 am

These simple tips are really simple. I have used all these tips and I am surprised that these all works fine. You are a great advisor. Thanks for advising these simple tools.

Reply

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