With the recent massive hail storm Phoenix experience two years ago, many homeowners in Glendale were able to claim new roofs and AC units and roofing companies started popping up from out of nowhere.  One thing roofing company’s love is attic ventilation and without an understanding of how a home performs as a system, this can be more harmful than helpful. 

Attic ventilation can seem to be a good thing, you cool down your attic in the summer and less heat will get into your home.  Many homeowners also get told more attic ventilation will extend the life of your roof and when roofing sales people start down that path combined with homeowner speculation, too much of a good thing becomes bad? 

See roofers gone wild at:

http://gerryraysroofing.com/blogger/ventilation-issues-in-your-attic-space/

http://www.radiantbarrierguru.com/attic-ventilation-basic-tips/

Source: http://www.dom.com/about/conservation/pdf/attic_ventilation.pdf 

There is no documentation that attic fans actually extend the life of roofs and no documentation that they even help cool an attic.  I have stood in from of many attic fans and solar attic fans while performing energy analysis and blowing insulation and I can’t feel a damn thing and that is the truth.  From personal experience I didn’t feel any cooler in an attic with a huge power fan than an attic without.  Well enough of my experience, let’s look at the studies that have been done on this topic.

It has been proven that attic fans installed without air and duct sealing a home will pull your conditioned air up from the house and into the attic.  Yes that’s right, the average house an equilivent of a 1 sq ft window open all the time from leakage connections to the attic.  If you had an attic fan that moves a lot of air (like an attic fan) you might as well leave your door open while the AC is running. 

Where attic fans become harmful is when they start pulling carbon monoxide in from an attached garage and cause a gas water heater to backdraft or pilot lights to go out on gas appliances.  Air leaks and wasting energy is fine, that can be fixed but having family become sick because of CO poisoning is dangerous and people need to be aware of attic fan side effects.

Proof about attic fans and their lies:
http://www.dom.com/about/conservation/pdf/attic_ventilation.pdf

“Unplanned Impacts On Houses By Powered Attic Ventilators” http://www.advancedenergy.org/buildings/knowledge_library/ventilation/Attic%20Ventilation%20Case%20Studies.pdf

http://www.servicemagic.com/article.show.5-Myths-about-Attic-Ventilation.16547.html

The best way to control your attic temperatures is simply adding more insulation.  Yes the garage and the attic gets very hot in the summer, and heat transfer is driven by temperature differences… but it is also driven by pressures (your AC unit) and pathways (holes and leakage).  You can greatly slow down the transfer of heat into your home with properly installed insulation up to R-30, air sealing attic penetrations and properly sealing your ductwork with verification testing.  If you are purchasing a new roof, light colored shingles are a great way to reflect the sunlight and making sure your home complies with current codes for attic ventilation.  Usually your home already has enough ventilation especially if you have the bird hole venting with gable vents on both sides of your attic, you don’t need any more attic ventilation.  As always if you like this article like us on Facebook for more energy saving tips!

http://www.aps.com/main/services/residential/rates/rates_29.html#standard

I thought APS had another 9 am – 6 pm rate plan, but as of this blog, I couldn’t find it on their website.  There is also the equalizer plan which many people like because of its predictability… except when it’s not predictable.  Under the Equalizer Plan you may the same amount on your bills each month as your usage is averaged over 9 to 12 months.  More information on the APS Equalizer Plan can be found below:

http://www.aps.com/main/services/residential/FAQ/ResFAQ_50.html

If you are interested in other energy efficiency ideas, take our quick quiz to the right sidebar and we’ll send you some insider DIY tips to save money on you bills.

The great debate continues on the proper setpoint of a thermostat while on vacation or work.  It seems like everyone and their mother has their favorite standpoint… some say no more than 5 degrees, others say the higher the better so which is right.  Before I reveal the proper setback temperature in Arizona, let me make the disclaimer that my job is to help reduce homeowner’s utility bills and I am a lifelong student and love the building science arena.  During college, I dove into the exhilarating subject of psychometrics and aerospace classes which is the basis for of how we stay comfortable in homes and how heat pumps work to accomplish this goal. 

I’ve been in many discussions (sometimes very passionate) about this topic with my air conditioning friends and like you, have done a little research on this topic.  I am also doubtful of friends of friends that have worked at an air conditioning company for the last 20 years or even air conditioning techs that proudly say the thermostat should be set no more than 5 degrees from your normal setpoint.  That is simply not true and here is why.  Your heat pump takes 5 – 10 minutes to run at its highest efficiency and when it is constantly cycling on and off you are using a lot more energy than if the heat pump was continually running.  So if the thermostat is bumped up to 83 degrees while you are at work, and you set it to 78 when you come home, the heat pump does not have as much heat to remove as a 88 degree house and will run less to get to 78. 

Plus if your air conditioning system is like 90% of the ACs in Phoenix, it is oversized and will remove the heat even faster than designed.  Now it is a good idea to pre-set the thermostat lower an hour before you come home so it does not take as long to cool your home at 88 degrees.  SRP also address this old wives’ tale and has a great Q&A here.

http://www.srpnet.com/energy/ask/air.aspx

Also check out Energy Savers tips on thermostat settings.

http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/space_heating_cooling/index.cfm/mytopic=12720

Feel free to post your comments and thoughts below and let’s save some energy!

#1First & foremost - Make sure your energy auditor/inspector is a participant of a local energy efficiency program sponsored and organized by your utility company (APS & SRP in Arizona). This participation should also make you eligible for financial incentives and rebates after meeting energy efficiency criteria.#2Taking care of business - Be sure that the energy auditor/inspector of choice has the minimum insurance, bonds, licenses and credentials. The minimum requirements for participating in most local programs are:

• BPI-Certified Building Analyst Professional.
• General liability and professional errors & omissions insurance.
• Registrar Of Contractors License (ROC#) along with required bonding and insurance coverage.
  

We don't recommend hiring someone with the minimum basics. Also look for:

• BPI-Certified Building Envelope Professional
• RESNET Certified HERS Rater
• BPI Certified AC/Heat Professional
• LEED Certified
• Members of national and local organizations like - Efficiency First, Energy Star and similar.
  
• BBB Members

#3Proper approach - Make sure the company you are considering takes a whole house approach. They should perform a comprehensive energy audit and also have the resources and capability to perform a full spectrum of appropriate efficiency retrofits. The energy auditor/inspector may cover all aspects from audit/inspection to retrofit, or work closely with certified and authorized partners to handle everything.

We emphasize this point because there are  product specific contractors in existence who may use the efficiency audit and audit program platforms to sell their specific products and services regardless of a real or appropriate need.

Examples: 

• If the auditors are primarily a insulation company they may have a strong incentive to sell you insulation, whether insulation is needed or not.
  
• The point above could also apply if the auditors are primarily an A/C company or a door and window company...or other product specific companies. You get the idea.

The bottom line is if you call a company that doesn't specialize and perform a whole house approach to energy auditing and repairs then you may likely be calling out a sales person for a specific product. Ask about the whole house approach to energy efficiency when you call for an energy audit/inspection.
#4The right tools for the job - The energy auditor should have the right tools for the job. The big question is, "Do they include infrared photos and scanning in the program rate?" If they are charging extra that's a big "NO HIRE" from where we stand. Infrared should be included. Chances are, if they include infrared, they most like have the other tools necessary. However, here is a list of other "must have" equipment items:

• Blower door kit and manometer
• CO Detection equipment
• Moisture detection equipment
• Anemometer
  
• Thermometer
• Infrared Camera.

#5No shortcuts - There are certain tasks that are required to be completed for proper energy audit performance and certification. Here they are:

Exterior Inspection:

• Landscape grade
• Moisture or potential moisture issues
• Gas leak detection when applicable
• Wear & Tear
• Window & door condition
• Shading
• HVAC

Interior:

• Attic inspection for insulation, HVAC, moisture issues, Ventilation and more
• Blower Door Test - Depressurizing house to identify leakage areas. 
• Duct leakage test - Either subtraction method or pressure pan method
• Room pressurization testing
• CO and gas safety testing on all gas appliances
• Doors windows
• Hot water heater
• Appliances
• Lighting
• Thermostat

#6Your eyes don't lie - Many energy auditors/inspectors and consultants are analytical people with backgrounds in engineering, professional home repair or similar. Therefore, most of them carry themselves as business professionals. Khaki pants, nice jeans, golf shirt or button up, clean shaven, clean equipment and vehicles should be the norm. If someone pulls up to your home and your gut tells you "no" based on an unprofessional appearance, then just say no to that person entering your home. 
#7Ask the hard questions - Look, it's your house and your money, you are hiring a professional to be a professional. Let them do what they do. That is why you asked them out. But before hiring, here are some questions you should be able to get solid answers to. 

• Who is coming out? Get the name and qualifications of everyone who will be in your home.
  
• How many energy audits/inspections have you performed? Many auditors are independent, self employed professionals trying to make a living, so when you call you often talk to the same person that's going to do the audit/inspection. This fact does not speak into experience or qualifications, so don't forget to ask about those too.
  
• Ask for references.
• Ask for proof of insurance and proof of credentials.
• Ask for a sample energy audit/inspection report.

#8Slow down we just met - Signing documents... You may be required to sign a utility company rebate form and/or a general agreement prior to the inspection. However, some companies may try to get you to sign a contract that states youmust use their company after the audit if you decide to get any repairs done. Be sure that you are signing for audit only and that you are free to use who you want for the repairs - This enables you to get competitive bids, negotiate and make intelligent and qualified decisions. #9You paid for it, it's yours - Be sure you own the final report, data and images. The final report is part of what you are paying for. If you decide not to use the auditor's services for the retrofit, then you can supply a copy of reports, data and images to another contractor and skip getting/paying for a second inspection.

While no two houses are the same, Phoenix’s housing stock does have similar construction traits and installation practices that are often the cause of high energy bills, temperature differences within rooms and poor indoor air quality.  In this blog series I would like to highlight some of the most common construction defects I find and what you can do to really transform your home for a better quality of life through lower utility bills, better air quality and even better sound-proofing.

Before we explore the wonderful world of your attic and we need to get into the mind-frame of looking at your house as one system made up of interdependent parts.  So your air conditioning and heating system is no longer a separate system that only affects your comfort and how warm you stay in the winter but it can also affect your health and safety.  That way builders typically build houses was that the framer would erect the frame of the house, then the HVAC, plumbing and electrical trades would come in and do their separate trades  etc – and none of these groups would really talk with each other… and that’s were we get these inefficiencies from.  Sometimes inefficiencies are from just laziness where an insulation contractor just laid fiberglass batt insulation on top of the attic studs because the drywall crew did not want to hit any staples when laying their drywall… opps.  There are a number of reasons why homeowners are paying too much for their utility bills or experience different temperatures in their homes and that’s what energy auditors do, identify those deficiencies and make recommendations on how they can be fixed.

This series is going to be broken up into chewable sections and peppered with energy saving tips and self-checks.  Each recommendation will detail the good and bad affects it can have on your home using the house-as-a-system approach and what you need to be aware of before deciding to work on your home.  We will go into detail about duct leakage and sealing, insulation performance, your home’s heat gain, how a 2-story home differs from a single story home, water heating and many more topics so stay tuned.

Being a Phoenix energy auditor is not all about crawling around insulation, measuring duct leakage and sizing solar electric systems for homes.  We are all about reducing your utility bills but there are many other benefits to an energy efficient home such as a more comfortable home, a home with less dust and a quieter heating and cooling system.  We recommend both conservation and efficiency upgrades to reduce your APS or SRP electric bills.  Conservation recommendations are if it is cold in your home, rather than turning on the heater, you put on a sweater.  Efficiency upgrades have to do with upgrading your insulation, ductwork sealing and window treatments so your home is more comfortable and you don’t have to change a thing. 

Here is a recommendation we don’t always talk about but many homeowners may find useful and that is what you can do with open, unwanted gifts or extra stuff lying around your home.  Lots of us have old books and other knacks we never use and you may not want to go through the effort of a garage sale.  With the web there are many places where you can sell your old stuff rather than the trash.  www.amazon.com is a great place to get rid of old books as is www.ebay.com.  If you aren’t getting any takers on those websites, try www.swap.com.  For your old gadgets try www.gazelle.com  and for your cell phones www.recellular.com or try your local women’s shelter.  Have old Apple iPod or a used iPhone?  www.tunecycle.com is a great place to sell old iPhones and Apple products. 

We hope you have a great holiday season and if you enjoyed this blog, please leave a comment or like our Facebook page at www.facebook.com/aGreenID.  

In Phoenix, our heating and cooling bills can account for half of our total utility bill. Learning how to choose and set your thermostat properly can save you hundreds of dollars a year on your utility bills.  The new Nest thermostat developed by ex-Apple employees learns on its own and can be controlled from a Smartphone.  We recently retrofitted a home that had two Nest thermostats and my crew thought it was the coolest thing they had ever seen.  It is very fun to play with and it saves you money too!  

While the rest of the market catches up with Nest, here are some great videos guide to help you choose a programmable thermostat that's right for your lifestyle and schedule.  There are also helpful tips on how to set the thermostat during the day and night.  The second video is from SRP and shows how to install a programmable thermostat.  An SRP energy auditor will also be able to tell you if your thermostat settings are best suited for your home.  APS also gives some helpful advice at the link below.
http://www.aps.com/main/services/business/waystosave/buswaystosave_64.html

Enjoy! 

A high efficiency heating and cooling system does not end with the unit itself.  This is especially true in Phoenix, where most of the ductwork is located in attic space where temperatures can reach 140+ in the summer.  A high SEER AC unit is definitely an improvement when replacing older units, but that air needs to be carried through the ductwork distribution system to keep you comfortable in the winter and summer. 

If the air conditioning contractors cut corners on the ductwork, then the entire efficiency of a new unit is greatly reduced.  In Phoenix, homes built after 1980 used flex ductwork as the preferred means of air distribution.  Flex ductwork is good because it is easy to install, required little preparation and can be done by less skilled workers.  On the down side, unless an air conditioning contractor does a proper load and duct design calculation using Manual J and D, a number of problems can arise because of cutting corners.  Problems such as poor airflow, high room pressures, excessive dust and conditioned and heated air being lost to the outside are all too common in existing homes.  Many times if an air conditioning contractor has done work or replaced an AC unit in the past, they really will mess a system up.  I think one of the reasons good home inspectors and energy auditors are so skeptical of HVAC contractors in Phoenix is because we see the outrageous work done and what it is costing the homeowner.  

Duct leakage can mean your heating and cooling system is sucking outside attic air into the unit and heating it in the winter or cooling it during the summer and blowing air into the attic on the supply side.  Both are costly and will decrease the life of the unit.  APS estimates that an average 15% of a home’s existing air is wasted to the outside.  SRP shows similar statistics and both utility companies sponsor home energy audits to check for leakage and offer rebates for sealing the ductwork.  For more information on duct leakage visit:

http://www.aps.com/_files/services/ResFAQ/ductleakage.pdf

http://www.aps.com/main/green/choice/choice_75.html

http://www.bestofbuildingscience.com/videos.html

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_improvement.hm_improvement_ducts

http://www.greenintegrateddesign.com/air--duct-sealing.html

1.       You won’t learn any new building science skills.  HERS classes very quickly cover building science concepts and gloss over health and safety and house-as-a-system concepts.  The companies that do HERS training aren’t aligned with the Building Performance Institute to get BPI Continuing Education Credits.  The main purpose of a HERS course is to pass the HERS exam which is more about the SYSTEM in-place for data collection, REMRATE parameters and qualifying entries.  There are questions on the exam regarding heat transfer and building science but a week long class is even more crammed than a BPI class since the instructor has all the building science topics to cover plus new material on HERS.

2.       The costs of travel, lodging, courses, exams, probationary ratings and even finding your own test houses can add up quickly and are all separate costs!  HERS Indexes require a duct blaster test be performed on the home, which is another piece of equipment which needs to be purchased.  Some HERS training classes include 3 probationary ratings during the week long class, but most do not.  There you also have a separate REMRATE software license fee plus the Affiliate fee for third party verification of your work for Energy Star.

3.       The HERS Rating market is focused primarily on new construction, then in the mortgage industry.  There is a great opportunity for energy efficient mortgages (EEMs) but the biggest hurdle is education of realtors and loan officers.  Networking is a great way to meet those professionals but it takes time and persistence to crack that market.  Homes being built to Energy Star standards do require a HERS Index be done but this is a totally different animal than performing energy audits and retrofits on existing homes.  Usually it’s done business-to-business so you don’t have the homeowner aspect anymore which takes out the client interaction during the audit completely. 

Here are the reasons why you should become a HERS Rater. 

1.       Energy Efficiency Mortgages or EEMs is a relatively untapped market.

2.       REMRATE and REMDESIGN are great software tools to know and deepen your understanding of cost effective upgrades.

3.       Code requirements for homes are becoming stricter with minimal duct leakage and better ventilation standards.  RESENET has well positioned itself in the new homes industry and IECC code is headed towards duct tests and/or HERS Indexes be performed on all new homes.  I don’t think this will happen for another 10 – 15 years but by getting your HERS Certification you are ahead of the game.

Just like anything if you are focused on making a successful career as a HERS Rater it takes energy, time and hard work but it can be done and the rewards are huge.  We wish you luck in any endeavor you take and happy 2012!